10 Steps to a Better Fitting Bra

How Should a Bra Fit?

Measuring yourself is only the first step. Once you have your approximate size, it's time to start trying on bras to see which brands and styles fit you best.

This will vary depending on your size, your shape, and a host of other factors.  However, there are a few simple rules to keep in mind.

1. The band should be straight across your back and lie flat against your ribcage in front.  If it's riding up in back, it's too large. Try a smaller band size. You may have to adjust your cup size too.

2.  It should not pull down in front.  If it does, your bra is too small. You need a bigger cup size.

3.  The straps should fall straight down your back (unless you have a spinal curvature).  If they're slipping and sliding, they may be too loose. Or, your band size may be too large.

Another possibility is that you're petite and the "regular" straps are too long for you. A leotard back may be the solution. Or, try one of the styles made for petite women. If you have a curved spine, try a bra with a wide back (more hooks will help).

4.  The straps should not dig into your shoulders.  The band should provide 90% of the support. If the band is too big, the straps will take most of the weight, and dig into your shoulders.

5.  Your breasts should fit comfortably inside the cups, without spilling over the top or the sides of the bra.  If you're overflowing your bra, you need a larger cup size. If you spill out the sides, try a full coverage style.

If you're coming out the bottom, or if the bra puckers only on the top, look for a bra designed for a shallow profile.  Or, try a demi-cup or balcony style which has more material on the bottom.

If you spill out the sides, you may need a larger size. Or, try a style with higher sides or side slings to push you forward. Panache bras are a good choice for this (but note, they are generally not a good option if you're petite).

6.  The cups should stay flat against your body when you move around.  A bra with cups that are too small for you will pull away when you move and dig in under your arms. The "girls" will hang down, rather than forward. They should be halfway between your shoulder and your elbow.

7. The underwire should not dig under your arms.  If it's poking you, you may need a larger cup size. If you're short, you may need a bra designed for petite women.

8. The cups should not pucker or bag.  If the bra puckers all over, the cups are too big for you. Try either a smaller cup size or a brand that runs small, such as Calvin Klein or Maidenform.

9.  The center panel (the gore) should lie flat against your chest.  If it pulls away, the cups may be too small. If your breasts are far apart, look for bras with a wide, triangular panel.

10. The band and straps should fit against your skin, without bulges or "back fat."  The solution to this is bras with a wider band and straps (to contain everything). Thin straps and bands only make the problem worse.

If you need more information on different bra styles, what the names mean, how seams change the fit, and interpreting sizes (because they are not the same), check my page on how to find a bra that fits.