How to Buy a Bra That Fits

Have You Been Struggling to Find the Perfect Bra?

photo by Tracy Hunter on Flickr cc 2.0

You know, a bra that fits without spilling, or gapping, or puckering? Ever wondered why bras marked the same size never seem to fit the same way?

Or why you sometimes need different sizes in different brands — without gaining or losing any weight?

It's because each brand is different (and often each bra style too).

Each Brand Fits Differently

Read on to find out the fit differences in bra brands and sizes — and how each brand fits.

I found this out the hard way, ten years ago when I discovered I wasn't the size I thought I was.

When I learned the correct size, I thought I was set. Nope.

I tried on hundreds of bras: Freya, Wacoal, Elle MacPherson, Calvin Klein, Simone Perele. The list was endless. I felt like Goldlilocks testing chairs in a house with hundreds of bears instead of just three: this bra is too big; that bra is too small!; this one rides up; the other one gives quadraboob!

Ack!

I got so frustrated, I decided to build a bra fitting site that sorted out which bra would fit women of different shapes and sizes: large bands and small cups, small sizes, shallow profile, petite, full-figured, full-figured and petite, and non-standard sizes (like 38B, 34F, or 40H).

This is the result: a single site that lays out the problems many women have (puckering, spilling out, back fat, bands that ride up, and straps that slide down), and helps you find a bra that fits.

Some of these posts were originally published on Squidoo, but have been moved here, updated, and expanded!

Proper Bra Sizing and Fitting

Finding the right size

First, keep in mind that bra sizes are proportional, not absolute. The volume of the cup is proportional to the length of the band.  So, for example, the cup on a 42A bra has the same volume as the cup on a 30F. We tend to think of an A cup as "small", and an "F" cup as busty, but it's not necessarily true.  Each time the band size goes up, the cup size and volume increases too.  So, the cup on a 38G is bigger than the one for a 34G, despite the fact that they have the same letter size.

Of course, a woman whose size is 42A couldn't wear the 30F because the band would be too small. However, sometimes you can "sister" size (go up or down a band size/cup size) for a better fit, or even when you can't get your usual size. It will depend on the bra, the style, and the brand.

What you want to do is to get the band size right first (no slipping, no riding up, no squeezing or squashing). It should lay straight across your back. Then adjust your cup size up or down until you get the right fit. That should mean your breast tissue is completely contained inside the bra. You shouldn't be poking out the sides or the top. The bra should fit comfortably, without digging into your sides, poking under your bust, or pushing into your stomach.

Measuring is just the start

There are three main problems with bra fitting and sizing. The first is that the measuring that many sites suggest is really only the start. They tell you to measure your rib cage (under your bust) and then measure again around the fullest part of your breasts. Sounds simple, right? It isn't.

Some insist that  your ribcage size, plus four inches, is the way to go.  Others say (with equal conviction)  that the plus four method is outdated and to just use your actual measurement. 

First,  you need to figure out which of these methods work best for your body. Some find it's the first way, others the second.  There are those who also insist that you try using your dress size as a guide.

Whichever method you choose, you should try to get the band size (the ribcage measurement) sorted out first.  Once you find that number, you can then proceed to get the right cup size.

Fit Note

The cup volume on a 38B bra will be larger than those on a 34B, and a 40B is actually bigger than a 34D.

Department store sizes are limited

The second is that if you’re very small, large, shallow, or an unusual size, such as 30A, 40B, 32E, or a 38J, it’s really hard to even find a bra in your size (let alone one that fits properly).
Most department stores carry 10-11 bra sizes, and focus on average size bras for average size women (like 34B or 36C or 34D).

An inch is not an inch 

The third problem is that bras that are tagged the same size actually aren’t. For instance, Calvin Klein and Maidenform bras run small (particularly in the band), Fantasie bras are fuller, and Glamorise and Goddess bras are bigger still.

Wacoal has bras that range from small to average to full-figured (with a dose of petite thrown in just to confuse you).

And, then there's the fact that different styles will fit differently. The trouble is, that once you measure, you need to figure out which bra style and brand best fits your body shape.

US/UK/European lettering systems aren't the same

One more obstacle: different areas use different combinations of letters to label their bras.  It's all consistent up to a D cup. After that, it can get kind of tricky.

In the US, sizes are D, DD (or sometimes E), DDD (sometimes F), and DDDD (sometimes G). On the other hand, in the UK the sizes go DD, E, F, and G. In Europe, it's D, E, F, and G. The chart below shows the changes in sizes. To make things easier, every bra on this site lists the sizes it comes in, as well as the system being used to create those sizes. So, for example a bra will be labeled US sizes 34A-42DDD or UK sizes 34A-42F. It's the same range, just with different letters.

Bra Cup Size Conversion Chart
United States	UK	Europe	Australia
D	D	D	D
DD or E	DD	E	DD
DDD or F	E	F	DDD or F
DDDD or G	F	G	DDDD or G

Now that the sizing is a bit clearer, you can focus on figuring out how it should fit on your body (so you know you have the right bra.  Here's a handy bra fit checklist.  You can print it out or keep it open in a window while you shop online.

How bra shapes and styles affect fit

The shape and styling of the bra can also change how a bra fits, and who can best wear it.

It's easy to see that a full cup bra will cover more than a demi-cup bra. It's not always so obvious that a balconette bra is a bit smaller than a demi-cup. There's also a lot of confusion about the difference between a molded bra and a contour bra.

Balconette bras: this style is cut straight across and is smaller than a demi-cup. There may be some padding and a vertical seam. Both the padding and the same will make you look a bit bigger as they increase the size slightly and give the bra more lift.  Since this is a lower cut bra, it's good for shallower breasts and lower cut square neck tops. 

Balcony bras: these have a plunge front neckline, which is good for v-necked tops. The straps tend to be wide set, so it's best if you have wider shoulders.  The styling will also help push your breasts together (preventing the side to side look) and give you better cleavage.  

Contour cups: also known as t-shirt bras, these bras have a fixed shape. If you poke them, the cup will bounce right back into shape, and it will keep the same shape whether or not you are wearing it.  This is a good choice if you are uneven or shallow, as it will hide the lack of fullness and/or the difference in size between breasts. They are round, seamless, and are thick enough to hide any reaction to cold weather.  That's because there's a layer of foam inside between you and the world.

Demi cups: as the name implies, these are smaller (half) cups. This is a good style if you are shallow, since it will conceal the lack of upper fullness. The bra fabric can't wrinkle or pucker if it's not there! The shape also means the underwires are shorter, so it's a good choice if you have trouble with wires digging in under your armpits, or if you are short.

Full coverage: designed to completely cover the breast tissue, and lock everything into place for great support. If you have full, heavy breasts, or are full figure, a full coverage bra will give you the lift and support you need to keep everything in place. Some of these may be too much bra if you are short, as the cup may end up near your neck.

Minimizer: a minimizer style is designed to reduce projection and make you look smaller. If you have trouble getting shirts to button, a minimizer bra can make it easier to wear button-down shirts without popping out of them.  Keep in mind that the bra can't actually make you smaller, it just shifts the tissue to the sides.

Molded: this often gets confused with contour cups. A molded bra is just heated into a specific shape. They are generally seamless and a bit thicker than a fabric bra, but not as thick or heavy as a contoured bra. The new 3D and spacer bras are often molded; they give coverage without being heavy. Since they don't have the contoured foam layer inside, they may hide the headlights better than a seamed bra, but not as well as a contoured one.

Seamed bras: also called cut and sewn bras. The seams are there to give better shaping and support. They will also mold more to your shape. The material is generally stretchier and can better adjust to fit the shape of your body.  Also the seams can shape you better and give you more lift.  Generally bras for larger sizes will have more seams (3 or 4 part cups) since that provides extra shaping and support.  The downside, of course, is that the seams may show under thinner shirts.

• Horizontal seams: a seam that goes straight across the front of the bra and gives the bra a more conical shape (think retro) and makes you look more projected
• Vertical seams:  think lots of lift, especially in demi cup bras or in larger size bras, which may have more than one vertical seam. A vertical seam pushes everything up and will give you better cleavage in a lower cut style
• Transversal seams: this is a horizontal seam but with an arched shape (like a rainbow). It supports like a vertical seam, plus lift and a more rounded shape. This also tends to show up in larger bra sizes (better lift , shaping, and support for heavier busts).
• Diagonal seams:  stretches from the top of the cup (near the strap or under the arm) to the center of the bra. This helps push you together, and provides better support and lift.

Narrow or wide center panel

Another thing to check is the center panel of the bra. The best shape for you will depend on the shape of your breasts. If you are wide-set, look for bras that have a wide, triangular center panel.  That will give you enough room to accommodate your wide-set shape and enclose your breasts without the wires cutting into the center of your body. Demi cups and molded bras are generally better for this, but check each bra individually to make sure.

On the other hand, if you are close-set, look for bras that have tall, narrow center panels. Full coverage bras tend to be shaped like this, so they are a better choice if you are close-set.  Larger sizes also tend to have narrow, tall panels for better containment and hold.  Again, each bra is different, so check first.